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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 11:24 am Post subject: Product Idea Questions: |
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Just rumaging through some ideas here.
When my gaming group gets some new thing in the mail (computer, tv, roomba cleaning robot, etc.) we look at the styrofoam packaging material and decide if it can be used as a building for our gaming table. Often times the answer is yes, once we cock our heads to the side and let our imagination run a little wild.
This got me thinking. This same sort of pre-molded styrofoam could be used to create floorplans from the get-go. So, you could get a piece of styrofoam that is a large mansion/dungeon piece, stackable for multiple layers, and modifiable with a hot wire cutting tool (Say for external dungeon connections.
My question is this, what sort of price point would you be willing to buy an unpainted styrofoam structure that covers roughly 2ft x 2ft for?
Beyond painting, how much other work would you be willing to put into a piece to make it table ready? (For example would you rather have pre-cut doors and windows, making a layout an automatic mansion, or would you rather cut them yourselves so it could be used as a dungeon or a mansion?) How much would it affect your price point? _________________ Aperture Science:
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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Right now I'm in very early phases of this concept.
Though here's a very rough sketchup version of what I'm talking about more clearly.
This would be a basic floorplan, say a temple. You can see the cut-outs at the top and bottom of the walls that allow for easy stacking.
You can see there are not exterior doors or windows, which is part of what I'm thinking. You'd have to cut those yourself, meaning this could work as a dungeon, ground floor, or above. _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can.
Last edited by robert4818 on Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Vinzent Veteran

Joined: 13 Mar 2009 Posts: 759 Location: Seattle WA
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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Well I can think of a few problems.
First, styrofoam isn't very durable. I wouldn't pay a high price for something that's likely to get trashed at my table.
Second, as you pointed out yourself you are competeng against "free" packaging material.
Lastly it isn't very easy to transport, as are paper maps or even papercraft structures.
At most I would pay $10 for a 2x2 styrofoam model, and that's being generous. I don't know what your time and materials cost for each one would be but I doubt you'd make much money that way, unless you are injection moulding.
Edit- Although it would be a cool gimmick if this "level" was the packing material that also included figurines or pogs and a module. _________________ My Savage Worlds Blog
Get off the Human reservation. Read The Starrunner by C.B. Jones |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Vinzent wrote: | Well I can think of a few problems.
First, styrofoam isn't very durable. I wouldn't pay a high price for something that's likely to get trashed at my table.
Second, as you pointed out yourself you are competeng against "free" packaging material.
Lastly it isn't very easy to transport, as are paper maps or even papercraft structures.
At most I would pay $10 for a 2x2 styrofoam model, and that's being generous. I don't know what your time and materials cost for each one would be but I doubt you'd make much money that way, unless you are injection moulding.
Edit- Although it would be a cool gimmick if this "level" was the packing material that also included figurines or pogs and a module. |
Brutal honesty is greatly appreciated.
I'm looking at hiring a company that does molded EPS to make the products. I'm trying to find out roughly what it would end up costing per unit.
I do know that EPS comes in different desities, and am looking at using the sturdiest one to let it last the longest.
The bonuses of this over free packaging material is the ability to have a real floor plan designed around the use of minis. "Free" Packing material is cheap, but you have to adjust it to fit your needs.
I am looking to have this be fairly cheap, not sure if $10 is enough, but I definitely believe that anything over $25 makes it a non-seller. I would like these to be similar to "Gladware" Sturdy enough to use over and over, cheap enough to break, customize, tweak, and replace without feeling alot of pain.
This also has one other advantage over the free alternative. A bit more molecularity. The modules are designed to stack for quick multi-level combinations. They are also a uniform size, meaning you can fit them together for larger layouts (say using 6 to make a 6'x4' dungeon) _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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Cryonic Veteran
Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Posts: 814
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:53 am Post subject: |
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While this is an interesting concept, I think the problem is, for the cost of getting a 3D setup for a module, it would be a one-shot thing which is a large expense. Also, storage and transport of them makes them less than ideal for a lot of gaming.
This kind of thing is more likely to be used by wargamers where they can keep mixing and matching the 3D sets to create terrain for their battlefields.
I've played in many games. Most just avoid terrain. A few have used 3D terrain and I've found that while the 3D terrain was visually interesting, it tended to detract from the use of the miniatures. Walls make it hard to position a figure and stairs would really have to be tiered flats instead of the real slopes. And reaching around in the terrain has tended to lead to more messes from fat fingers.
Stacking the items sounds interesting, until you split the party and have to be able to move minis around on both levels. So, why bother ever stacking them up except for transport/storage. _________________ My Blog of Random Gaming: http://www.daemonstorm.com
Savage Worlds Tales: http://www.daemonstorm.com/category/Categories/Role-playing/Savage-Worlds |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Cryonic wrote: | While this is an interesting concept, I think the problem is, for the cost of getting a 3D setup for a module, it would be a one-shot thing which is a large expense. Also, storage and transport of them makes them less than ideal for a lot of gaming.
This kind of thing is more likely to be used by wargamers where they can keep mixing and matching the 3D sets to create terrain for their battlefields.
I've played in many games. Most just avoid terrain. A few have used 3D terrain and I've found that while the 3D terrain was visually interesting, it tended to detract from the use of the miniatures. Walls make it hard to position a figure and stairs would really have to be tiered flats instead of the real slopes. And reaching around in the terrain has tended to lead to more messes from fat fingers.
Stacking the items sounds interesting, until you split the party and have to be able to move minis around on both levels. So, why bother ever stacking them up except for transport/storage. |
My goal, right now, is to create structures that have at least 1 of three features:
1. Specific function, generic location. (For example, parking garage/tavern)
2. Specific Function, usable for more than 1-off (Arena).
3. Generic and easily modular in groups. (I.e. "Dungeon Tiles")
Dungeon tiles will probably have the most variety in them. You ideally want something Asymmetrical, so that a rotation of 90 gives players a different path and feel compared to a symettrical one, which regardless of how its turned has the same "map"...
Don't get me wrong. Flooplans will still be fairly generic. (I.E. rooms and hallways) without much direct decorations. So, while I say "dungeon tiles" they are likely also able to be used as tiles for a mall, floors for a downtown building, etc. _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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Cryonic Veteran
Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Posts: 814
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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Only more affordable, larger, and a little less modular. (Lets face it, 2ft x 2ft is much less modular than 1/2 x 1/2) _________________ Aperture Science:
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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Google Sketchup allows me to mock up ideas fairly quickly.
I knocked out two of them today playing around.
The first is a Parking garage, which shows off the Stacking concept fairly well.
The other is an Arena. Its not as versatile as other ideas, but you can imagine it being placed in the middle of other tiles to be part of a bigger complex, or on its own as a part of rpg adventure.
 _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can.
Last edited by robert4818 on Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:43 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jordan Peacock Legendary

Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 2304 Location: Orlando, Florida
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Okay, applying "FORNESS(R)" thinking to this:
I am FOR:
* Lightweight pre-fab scenery.
* Customization options.
* Cool 3D modeling you've shown for your concepts.
* Low cost for large terrain.
* Modern/futuristic terrain that isn't "space-Gothic." (I love 40K terrain, but sometimes I just DO NOT want "skullz" on everything.)
I WISH FOR:
* A way to cut the material that doesn't result in "crumbs." I have a hot-wire cutter, which works well with insulation board (AKA "those big sheets of pink stuff at Home Depot"), but not so much with styrofoam. Would it be possible to mold "the pink stuff" or something similar into these shapes and still have fairly low cost and lightness?
>>> Possible Solution: Make some sort of prefabricated "doorway insert" piece that fits into a hole you cut, with a bit of a "lip" around it, sort of like a grommet, to in essence HIDE the ragged edge of your own cut-out doorway, and provide a standardized width for a door piece to be fit into. I don't know what this doorway insert piece would be made out of (hey, it's just a brainstorm), or else I'd be doing this myself.
* A way to paint the styrofoam. If it's pre-painted, that would be nice, but would surely add to the cost ... and if I'm supposed to cut it up, the cuts would expose un-painted surfaces in need of touch-up work. (The pink stuff would have the same problem, unfortunately -- hence my use of acrylic house paint for a base coat to completely seal things before I start spraying.)
* Texture. If I'm going to get pre-fab 3D terrain, I want surface details. I have enough of a handle on basic construction techniques that I can cut up mat board, illustration board, cardboard tubes and such, in order to make large, broad structures. The little details are what prove to be problematic, and which really bring the terrain "to life" -- sci-fi corridors with anti-skid/diamond-plate textures, conduit along the walls, control panels; modern buildings with brick textures, tiled sidewalks; dungeons with "flagstone" floors and nooks in the walls, etc.
>> Possible solution: Pre-printed cardstock inserts, which would make this a sort of hybrid "papercraft/foam" deal. The "texture" would only be in print, but it might still look nice on the table, which is the key point, and the foam would give it more body and ability to hold up miniatures than mere papercraft.
>>> Related to above: Perhaps you could have some cardstock or die-cut cardboard door markers, similar to the standing doors in the Doom Board Game or Space Hulk, with plastic standing clips (doesn't someone manufactures those already?). You cut the doorways, and here are some doors that will go with them.
* Easy storage and transport. How big are these pieces? Instead of having one huge flat piece of styrofoam that's likely to break with a little leverage, it might be better to have smaller modular sections that can be joined together to make a larger design, or stacked up for storage ... or, if applicable, rearranged for slightly different layouts.
* Brainstorming: Multi-purpose. We've got these big styrofoam shapes, right? Wouldn't that be great for storing and transporting miniatures? Maybe there could be some added value in having a styrofoam "starship interior" set that has a few molded foam modules that can be used to represent your starship battleground, but you could also insert some foam spacers in the various compartments that could be used to store minis, and stuff the whole thing into a box for storage and transport.
Last edited by Jordan Peacock on Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:32 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jordan Peacock Legendary

Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 2304 Location: Orlando, Florida
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 9:29 am Post subject: |
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It's not entirely relevant, but I thought I would share some pictures from my Slipstream store game I ran on the 18th, in case this might offer any inspiration.
This is half of my "star base interior" set. At a local thrift store (sadly, recently closed down) I found a plastic cassette tape holder set. This consisted of four plastic trays with ridges set in the sides so that it could hold cassette tapes. The four trays all went into a cloth zipper case, with two sitting side-by-side, and then the other two stacked on top of them.
In essence, what I had was a bunch of little plastic "rooms," and I used a Dremel cutter to cut doorways in between those chambers. (I then had to do a whole lot of cleaning of the plastic "crumbs" left behind -- quite the mess.)
I put down a layer of insulation board foam in the bottom of each chamber (except for some rooms -- not shown above -- where I had a bunch of techno-junk to represent "generator rooms" with greater depth). I used plastic cross-stitch grid from a local craft store (JoAnn Fabric) to make the generic "grill" flooring on top of the foam, and used some old Grendel resin-cast scenery and some broken Star Wars Micro Machines play-sets and other broken toys to supply "techno bits" for the more permanent fixtures, and then supplemented those with other scenery as needed. In my example, I'm using some Space Hulk doors that I acquired after a friend bought the Space Hulk game just for the plastic Space Marines. (Yow.)
Here's a closer view of some of the chambers in use. As you can no doubt see, I had some trouble cleaning up the cuts for the doorways, as you can still see places where the plastic melted under application of the Dremel cutting tool. On my "low priority to-do list" some day is to make some sort of frames for the doorways to hide the ugliness of the cuts.
Here's an older picture of the whole set in use at Necronomicon 2011.
As with my previous thought concerning having the terrain double as storage, I used the case as transport for miniatures and small "sci-fi furniture" pieces for my scenario, so that I would have it all together. I could just stick a piece of foam with "pockets" cut into it to hold miniatures in the open spaces within the trays, put the doors on their sides in other compartments, then stack the thing up, zip up the case, and I'm ready to go. _________________
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:08 am Post subject: |
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| Jordan Peacock wrote: | Okay, applying "FORNESS(R)" thinking to this:
I am FOR:
* Lightweight pre-fab scenery.
* Customization options.
* Cool 3D modeling you've shown for your concepts.
* Low cost for large terrain.
* Modern/futuristic terrain that isn't "space-Gothic." (I love 40K terrain, but sometimes I just DO NOT want "skullz" on everything.) |
Thanks!
[quoteI WISH FOR:
* A way to cut the material that doesn't result in "crumbs." I have a hot-wire cutter, which works well with insulation board (AKA "those big sheets of pink stuff at Home Depot"), but not so much with styrofoam. Would it be possible to mold "the pink stuff" or something similar into these shapes and still have fairly low cost and lightness?[/quote]
Styrofoam is the first item that comes to mind, based on the inspiration of the product, However, other products may work as I dig into research on the material itself. It may also be that if I can get a higher density foam, the crumbling problem isn't as noticeable than if I use the really light stuff.
| Quote: | >>> Possible Solution: Make some sort of prefabricated "doorway insert" piece that fits into a hole you cut, with a bit of a "lip" around it, sort of like a grommet, to in essence HIDE the ragged edge of your own cut-out doorway, and provide a standardized width for a door piece to be fit into. I don't know what this doorway insert piece would be made out of (hey, it's just a brainstorm), or else I'd be doing this myself.  | Not a bad idea, however, since doors are going to be nonstandard in size (given that the person themselves cuts them open) It might be a bit difficult, I have an idea, but I will address it when I talk about textures below.
| Quote: | | * A way to paint the styrofoam. If it's pre-painted, that would be nice, but would surely add to the cost ... and if I'm supposed to cut it up, the cuts would expose un-painted surfaces in need of touch-up work. (The pink stuff would have the same problem, unfortunately -- hence my use of acrylic house paint for a base coat to completely seal things before I start spraying.) |
I haven't explored this option yet. It depends on the manufacturer. I expect that this will end up being white, but if possible I might be able to get the foam to come pre colored throughout. If I can do this without much added cost, I'll probably have it come pre colored in a dark color such as black or gray. However, I do believe I can have a printed page or a wanring on the box about use of water based spray paints only. (or something to that effect)
| Quote: | * Texture. If I'm going to get pre-fab 3D terrain, I want surface details. I have enough of a handle on basic construction techniques that I can cut up mat board, illustration board, cardboard tubes and such, in order to make large, broad structures. The little details are what prove to be problematic, and which really bring the terrain "to life" -- sci-fi corridors with anti-skid/diamond-plate textures, conduit along the walls, control panels; modern buildings with brick textures, tiled sidewalks; dungeons with "flagstone" floors and nooks in the walls, etc.
>> Possible solution: Pre-printed cardstock inserts, which would make this a sort of hybrid "papercraft/foam" deal. The "texture" would only be in print, but it might still look nice on the table, which is the key point, and the foam would give it more body and ability to hold up miniatures than mere papercraft.
>>> Related to above: Perhaps you could have some cardstock or die-cut cardboard door markers, similar to the standing doors in the Doom Board Game or Space Hulk, with plastic standing clips (doesn't someone manufactures those already?). You cut the doorways, and here are some doors that will go with them. |
I want most floor plans to be as nuetral as possible with regards to genre. For example, the "temple" rough sketch up top could be a temple, or it could be a lobby of a business. Directly texturing that eliminates that usability. Adding anything to the package raises its per unit cost, and in return its price to the consumer. Its something that would be neat, but I would like to keep the price down low.
However, what I may do is have textures, doors, edge bands, etc. available for download on the website (which doesn't exist yet). Allowing you to add your own touches to the terrain as needed.
| Quote: | | * Easy storage and transport. How big are these pieces? Instead of having one huge flat piece of styrofoam that's likely to break with a little leverage, it might be better to have smaller modular sections that can be joined together to make a larger design, or stacked up for storage ... or, if applicable, rearranged for slightly different layouts. | Initially, I'm looking at 24"x24X4", which is fairly large as a foot print. However, they are designed to stack and stacking height is actually only 3.5 inches per unit. So a stack of 10 would still take up only 2x2ft of floor space, and be less than 36" in height. The foam is also safe to store on the floor.
Later down the road I'll look into making 1ft modules, but keep in mind you lose 2" of space due to the thick exterior walls, meaning there would be only 10" of usable space on the inside.
| Quote: | | * Brainstorming: Multi-purpose. We've got these big styrofoam shapes, right? Wouldn't that be great for storing and transporting miniatures? Maybe there could be some added value in having a styrofoam "starship interior" set that has a few molded foam modules that can be used to represent your starship battleground, but you could also insert some foam spacers in the various compartments that could be used to store minis, and stuff the whole thing into a box for storage and transport. |
This isn't a bad idea, but it would depend on the actual terrain piece, I would be wary of doing that with something like the parking garage or the arena, as spacers would be difficult to design for. However, for designs like the temple, which has rectangular rooms, it might be possible to create filler blocks that can slide into each room with cut outs for miniatures placed in them. Great idea!
These might be sold as extra's instead of included, however, if I can make the terrain at price, small blocks should be relatively cheap. _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:16 am Post subject: |
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| Jordan Peacock wrote: | It's not entirely relevant, but I thought I would share some pictures from my Slipstream store game I ran on the 18th, in case this might offer any inspiration.
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Great work! While not styrofoam, your set is exactly the type of concept I have in mind for people to do with this product. Instead of a dremel, you would have a hot wire tool, but you'd have something similar at the start, and can tweak to whatever use you may want. In order to be "playable" at the outset you would need to either mark or cut doors on the exterior. To make it beautiful, you'd need to do something along the route you've done with this.
Thanks for sharing, its great lookin. _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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With discussions from the manufacturer, I have updated my products images to reflect closer what they'll look like when made.
(Close, this is meant to resemble the grey foam that they produce, as seen in the picture above.) _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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Jordan Peacock Legendary

Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 2304 Location: Orlando, Florida
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, I like the mottled grey look. That seems like a much nicer starting point that would work for various settings.
Another thought: Grids. Will there be any indication of grid-lines on the models? I can see pros and cons for including such a thing, but I just thought I'd mention it. (I personally just use a tape measure, rather than being confined to a grid when it comes to terrain.) _________________
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Jordan Peacock wrote: | Ah, I like the mottled grey look. That seems like a much nicer starting point that would work for various settings.
Another thought: Grids. Will there be any indication of grid-lines on the models? I can see pros and cons for including such a thing, but I just thought I'd mention it. (I personally just use a tape measure, rather than being confined to a grid when it comes to terrain.) |
It may be possible to be a Grid, but it limits use to games that use grids. However, given the modularity of the product, a person can add a grid if they so choose. _________________ Aperture Science:
We do what we must, because we can. |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 11:08 am Post subject: |
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New question.
I'm thinking that 2ft x 2ft will be a bit unwieldy, and am thinking of dropping it to 18in square.
Would that work better for you as a user? _________________ Aperture Science:
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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Figured I would share what these things are starting to look like as you tile them.
This image uses 18" square tiles vice 24" tiles.
 _________________ Aperture Science:
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Other Mike Seasoned

Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 311 Location: Rochester, NY
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Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Jordan Peacock wrote: | | As you can no doubt see, I had some trouble cleaning up the cuts for the doorways, as you can still see places where the plastic melted under application of the Dremel cutting tool. |
So while it's not as fast as a Dremel tool, a razor saw is a lot cleaner when cutting plastic like that, as well as easier to control. _________________ My delusions of grandeur are way bigger than yours! |
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robert4818 Heroic
Joined: 25 Jan 2009 Posts: 1046
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:38 am Post subject: |
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Just an update.
I've finished putting together a prototype of the product. This is pieced together from Foamboard, not EPS, also, it is glued together, whereas the final product will be one solid piece. However, this should give you fairly good idea of how this thing will be shaped when its finished. Forgive the chunky look of the cutting. My knife has dulled quite a bit. Needless to say, the final piece will look much better than this.
Later, I plan on smoothing out the edges, and probably putting on a coat of textured paint.
Enjoy!
 _________________ Aperture Science:
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